Sunday, July 17, 2016

A Walk on the Wild Side



 Published in LMD Living- June 2016


With the month of Poson poya finally here and the greater Buddhist populace making extra efforts at spirituality, it was quite nice to happen upon the legend of how Buddhism seeped into this little island of devils. Amongst the fascinating stories is the tale of how King Devanampiya Tissa (Sri Lankans never believed in naming kids anything even mildly pronounceable) took up compassion as his personal mantra and established the world’s first animal sanctuary in 247 BC. 

Fast forward to about 2500 years later and you have a Sri Lanka that’s a far cry from the Buddhist nation it promised to be all those centuries ago. One doesn’t have to traipse all the way to Mihintale to be rudely slapped with the reality of what a mess we’ve made today on the animal welfare front. Ol’ Tissa would roll in his grave if he knew. So would the stag whose life he spared, if someone were to reveal that a good portion of its future generations are now packed up in a smelly concentration camp called the Dehiwela zoo. Those who still remain in the wild run the daily risk of being renamed venison.  Oh deer. 

One of the more endless tales of woe would have to be relayed by the elephant – that giant guardian of mystery and spirituality. If there’s one thing to be said about us puny Sri Lankans, it’s that we can take our David Vs. Goliath mentality a little too far. It’s certainly no joke that most of today’s dwindling local elephant population are more often found shackled and swaying in broken-spirited stress in some concrete shed, than they are lazily plonked in jungle mud-baths like they should be. Apparently, the interpretation of Ceylonese compassion is to dress them up in gaudy carnival attire complete with electrical wiring and parade them on long stretches of tar road amidst fire, drums and gawping humans. When not being poked with the ankus on the street, they’re found being prodded to stand on their heads or sit on miniscule stools at the zoo, for the entertainment of more gawping humans. We do this, of course, not in the name of Buddhism but more in the name of foreign currency, but it is ironic that a country so staunch in its belief in the power of karma would resort to enslaving, chaining and abusing the very creatures it deems sacred, all for bragging rights and a few bucks. Then again, ignorance and defiance is something we voluntarily relish in sunny Serendipity. The few eles who escape the greedy clutches of private owners and tourist attractions might have it easy in their bit of hideout, were it not for the inhabitants of surrounding villages raising sarongs and voices above the noise of the lethal hakka patas tossed casually at hungry pachyderms who visit for a cup of sugar. Today, Sri Lankans are to elephants what Isis is to the world, with the precious few activists who raise concerns being speedily thwacked in the bum for speaking uninvited.
The elephants are joined in their fundamental rights petition by almost every other four-legged, feathered or scaly being in little Lanka. What once roamed freely is now scurrying to avoid speeding safari jeeps, butcher’s knives and bullets, when not going slowly mad inside a holding cell due to no fault of its own. A visit to the zoo will not only present you with that delightfully packed deer enclosure and acrobatic elephants in chains, but also ostriches who have plucked all their feathers out (no, not because nude is in fashion), an assortment of monkeys all holding their starved arms out and begging for the paracetemols and razor blades thrown into their cages by our highly intelligent youth, and penguins suffering from heatstroke because the air conditioner can’t quite reach arctic temperatures inside the room painted white to trick them into believing it’s snowing. 

We are, after all, the land of Metta and Karuna. How beautifully we live up to our own preaching.

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